Thousands of Inari shrines exist throughout Japan, but Taikodani Inari is considered one of the five most important. Situated in the small town of Tsuwano, also known as Little Kyoto, Taikodani Inari draws visitors with promises of traditional cultural experiences minus the crowds of larger cities.
Built to defend
Taikodani Inari sits on a mountain northeast of where Tsuwano Castle once stood. According to traditional beliefs, the northeastern direction is the kimon–a demon gate where bad spirits can enter one’s life and wreak havoc. To counter the unlucky power of the northeast, cities in Japan often build temples or shrines facing this direction so that deities can offer protection. Taikodani Inari was built in the 18th century for this purpose, and although Tsuwano Castle was left to ruin during Japan’s modernization period, the shrine still exists to defend the residents of Tsuwano.
The main entrance to the shrine grounds is a switchback trail shaded by a tunnel of over 1,000 red torii gates, which represents the boundary between the ordinary and the sacred. Tiny shrines featuring fox statues, messenger’s of Taikodani Inari’s deity can be found along this approach before reaching the main grounds.
Upon emerging from the torii gate tunnel, visitors find themselves high above Tsuwano, surrounded by mountaintops and shrine buildings. Here, anyone can offer prayers or buy amulets to carry the power of the shrine home.
Iwami Kagura performances
Kagura is a traditional style of dance that is believed to be centuries old. It is often performed for the purpose of prayer or to ward off bad luck. Western Shimane Prefecture is renowned for a unique local style of this art known as Iwami kagura, which is characterized by elaborate costumes, vibrant masks, and lively music. Even if one doesn’t understand Japanese, Iwami kagura performances are a captivating experience.
Taikodani Inari Shrine occasionally hosts Iwami kagura performances on the weekends or during certain festivals. These performances portray tales of Japan’s Shinto deities battling demons, and it is said that some of these legends took place in what is now Shimane Prefecture. If visitors time their trip to Taikodani Inari according to the Iwami kagura schedule, an unforgettable opportunity to witness the legends of the land around them awaits.
