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With the approach of summer and the return of warm, sunny days in much of the northern hemisphere, rosé wine is back on many shopping lists. While many of us might be tempted to adhere to clichés surrounding this type of wine, which suggest it be served only for the aperitif hour, we take a look at the wines challenging this idea, specifically what's known in France as "rosé de garde," (rosé wines of reserve quality) which can be paired with food and consumed throughout a meal.
With the approach of summer and the return of warm, sunny days in much of the northern hemisphere, rosé wine is back on many shopping lists. While many of us might be tempted to adhere to clichés surrounding this type of wine, which suggest it be served only for the aperitif hour, we take a look at the wines challenging this idea, specifically what's known in France as "rosé de garde," (rosé wines of reserve quality) which can be paired with food and consumed throughout a meal.
When it comes to summer wine-drinking, there are often two camps. First, there are those who consider rosé as a thirst-quenching wine, beverage only suited to freshening up the aperitif course, the little bites enjoyed in a convivial setting before dinner. And then there are those who have stopped listening to such preconceived ideas and who pair their culinary creations with wines of the "third color." In the latter camp, perhaps there are some drinkers who even head to their cellar to pull out a vintage from last summer, or even from 2021! Because indeed, there are rosé wines that are of reserve quality, worthy of being kept -- "rosé de garde." For instance, for a wedding feast, fans of rosé and of gastronomic delights won't choose their tipple at random. They will opt for a wine that is capable of standing the test of time, like the Confidentielle cuvée from theFiguière estate in Provence, France. Composed of cinsault, mourvèdre and grenache, this combination is not chosen at random. The Combard family draws from a plot selection, among vines that are about 60 years old, while the presence of mourvèdre is not haphazard; the grape variety presents a late cycle of maturity which means it can be used as an element capable of shaping a rosé worthy of aging. Syrah and Cabernet Franc are the other grapes that offer aging potential.
Potential to be kept for up to five years
Leaving La Londe-les-Maures, home to the Figuièredomaine, and heading deeper into the heartland of Provence, is one of the references when it comes to rosé wine, Château Roubine, whose rosé can be kept for two years. This is the recommendation for the cru classé (classified growth) for vintages of its prestigious Lion & Dragon range. To offer such a long shelf life, the wine must be developed with great care in order to ensure that the aromatics mature and then are preserved. Before being pressed, the jus is put in contact with the grape skins during what is called a cold skin maceration. During this stage, vigilance is needed to extract a maximum of flavors while ensuring that no fermentation begins at that stage. At Roubine, this work is highly delicate for the Inspire vintage because it makes use of natural fermentation carried out with the help of yeasts naturally present on the skin of the grapes.
When the winemaker's process is meticulous enough, there is even the possibility of keeping particular rosés for up to five years, as Château Galoupet advises for its 2021 vintage. Part of the LVMH portfolio, the classified growth, which recently announced that it had obtained organic certification, has developed a wine based on eight grape varieties to offer a distinguished rosé with a memorable finish. A taste profile that comes at a price.
To ensure a wine is of reserve quality, some producers choose to make a rosé de saignée. This is a wine that is extracted from a vat dedicated to red wine, just a few hours after the maceration process starts. The winemaker can decide to proceed with the vinification of the elixir separately. In such an approach, the elevage of the wine can be done in barrels, thus bringing a whole new dimension to the rosé. At Château Saint-Martin, another classified growth of Côtes de Provence, the wine is partially aged in barrels made of acacia wood for the Comtesse de Saint-Martin vintage. And the result is completely different from stereotypical pale "thirst-quenching" rosés without a long finish to a taste experience more in line with the notes of a mellow wine. However the beverage is made from a trio of grape varieties familiar in the world of rosé: syrah, tibouren and grenache.
In the end, what applies to a red or white wine can also go for a rosé. Indeed, it's important to consider the conservation for a bottle of this color of wine. It is similarly advisable to keep a bottle of rosé lying down, away from light and vibrations. It should never be subjected to significant changes in temperature in order to favor a quality tasting after being kept in one's wine reserve.
