By Steve Dinneen
Much has been made of the creeping corporatisation of Soho, with independent bars and restaurants attempting – and often failing – to hold back the tide of chains hoping to capitalise on London’s most debauched district.
Nessa, a new modern British bistro headed up by highly-rated chef Tom Cenci, shows there’s still a place for restaurants that genuinely care – and even for ones that won’t leave you nursing a broken bank account the morning after.
Nestled at the more unloved Piccadilly end of Soho, Nessa is a vast, airy, unassumingly stylish all-day dining room. An alumni of Duck & Waffle, Cenci borrows some of that ‘trashy-comfort-food-meets-serious-gastronomy’ pizzazz but executes it far better.
Case in point: the curried egg mayo crumpet, which is an outstandingly decadent creation, slathered in mayo and topped with curry leaves and slices of fresh chilli. The mushroom ravioli is expertly crafted, while small plates including croquettes and black pudding brioche really grab you by the lapels and give you a good shake. Subtle it ain’t, but this is Soho, after all.
• To book go to nessasoho.com
