‘Men stop behaving like children when women are around’ – we speak to women in hospitality this IWD

By Steve Dinneen

As International Women’s Day (IWD) approaches, we decided to hand over our pages to some of the amazing women who are blazing a trail in the world of food, drink and hospitality, from top sommeliers to chefs, writers and managers. Each one is a star in their field and a role model for other women in the industry.

Rahel Stephanie, chef and writer

I’m a chef, writer and presenter specialising in Indonesian food. I’m passionate about raising awareness and reclaiming the respect of my culture and heritage through the medium of food. Last year, I received the Be Inclusive Hospitality’s Rising Star Award, spotlighting individuals from marginalised backgrounds in the hospitality sector.

Navigating the male-dominated culinary world as a self-taught woman of colour presents challenges. Frequently underestimated, I use these moments to break stereotypes. The surprise when my capabilities emerge serves as a powerful statement against biases, fuelling my determination to prove that culinary expertise transcends age, gender, and background. Each encounter reinforces the notion that talent and passion speak loudest.

While there’s still a long way to go, I’ve found a home and community in other female chefs, especially women of colour, who have been welcoming and supportive. Without many of them, I wouldn’t be where I am today.

In a cis-male-dominated industry, there is still a significant journey ahead to break systemic gender and sexual injustices.

The age-old stereotype of misogyny and macho posturing tends to make the kitchen an unwelcoming environment. We need to encourage a warm and welcoming workplace and make a deliberate effort to hire from marginalised gender and sexual backgrounds.

Women-led kitchens I’ve worked in are warm, welcoming, and full of soul and love.

IWD is a day of empowerment and a reminder that women of all backgrounds deserve respect and equal opportunities. This highlights the systemic challenges faced by those from marginalised backgrounds who struggle to achieve the same privileges as others.

I am and will always be an advocate for intersectional feminism, specifically focusing on empowerment and opportunities for those from marginalised backgrounds.

Emma Underwood, GM of Julie’s

I recently joined Julie’s Restaurant in Holland Park as General Manager, working alongside a strong female owner, Tara MacBain. Together, we are dedicated to creating a welcoming and inclusive environment for women at this historic restaurant.

The restaurant industry has made significant strides towards gender equality. When I first entered the industry, there were often disparities in roles and pay scales, with women more commonly found in front of house positions and men in back of house and leadership roles. However, in recent years there has been a noticeable shift towards greater equality.

More women are now assuming leadership positions, including executive chef and general manager roles, and there is a growing awareness of the importance of diversity and inclusion.

Initiatives such as mentorship programs and advocacy groups have emerged to support women in the industry, leading to a more equitable and inclusive environment overall.

There’s still significant work to be done to achieve full gender equality in the restaurant industry. While progress has been made, there are disparities in leadership positions, pay and issues like harassment and discrimination. Continued efforts in promoting diversity, implementing fair policies, and fostering inclusive environments are essential.

International Women’s Day in hospitality is a time to celebrate the invaluable contributions of women to the industry, from chefs and managers to servers and bartenders. It’s about recognising their talent, dedication and resilience in a field that presents unique challenges. It’s also an opportunity to address gender disparities, promote inclusivity, and create environments where women can thrive and excel.

Spasia Dinkovski, founder of Mystik Burek

I am chef and founder of Mystic Burek, a business I launched from my home kitchen in 2020, making stuffed filo pastry pies based on my grandmother’s recipe and delivering them around London. I opened my own shop in Sydenham last year, promoting Balkan culture and representing the diaspora through delicious cooking. I also have a book, DOMA, capturing the spirit of the Balkans through personal stories, essays on food and recipes.

I own and run my own business, so whatever I’ve been through got me where I am today. Having worked in kitchens for 15 years prior to this, I’ve had plenty of people try to bring me down, which has only made me push harder to get what I want.

The industry has definitely improved and it’s incredible to see so many female head chefs and business owners doing their thing. Sexism still exists though, in more subtle ways. I face it every time I receive unsolicited business advice, as if I need it. Men can act as if I’m just a woman baking pies and not a founder who achieved all that I have off my own back.

It’s important for women to stay vocal on the new subtle ways of being brought down, to talk to and empower each other to keep our heads held high. It’s also important to show the younger generation that hospitality can be a fruitful career. The craft has been lost across the board, with huge brands paying low wages, showing poor management and giving less training. Independent businesses are doing a much better job of placing women in valuable roles, it just needs to happen en-mass.

Although it’s essential to seek a balance of personalities and genders, anyone can rock the boat and cause chaos in the kitchen. The most successful teams I’ve worked in have always been about balance.

Big companies now employ people to manage diversity but these people are usually white and there’s a danger of falling into the trap of employing token ‘faces’. When you’re watching masterchef and they’re all bounding up to the kitchen, there’s usually a token woman or POC in each round. Representation is coming along, it’s just important that the sentiment behind it is truthful.

In general, women in the industry have to work harder and put themselves out there a lot more to succeed.

Aushi Meewella, co-owner of Kolamba

I’m a residential interior designer and co-owner of Kolamba. I’m involved in marketing, social media management and design conceptualisation — anything that influences and enhances our brand’s identity and outreach.

The transition into motherhood profoundly influenced my career. The delicate balance between professional commitments, family responsibilities and nurturing my children became a challenge. Supporting mothers in the workplace is something I’m deeply passionate about, especially as a business owner myself.

Over the years, there has been a noticeable shift in the restaurant business towards fostering a more inclusive and equitable environment. There is now a greater openness to address and rectify issues related to sexual equality, extending beyond just gender to encompass the wellbeing of all staff. Previously unchallenged behaviours are now met with more accountability and resolution, signalling a positive change within the industry, although there is still work to be done.

International Women’s Day holds profound significance for me. It’s a time to reflect, appreciate and celebrate the contributions of women across all spheres of life. Whether it’s the nurturing role of a stay-at-home mother or the dynamic leadership of a CEO steering a company, IWD serves as a powerful reminder of the invaluable impact women make every day. It’s a call to recognise and honour the diversity, strength, and resilience of women worldwide.

Hannah Crosbie, writer and broadcaster

I’m a wine writer and broadcaster, and access to education and opportunities are the biggest barriers to entry in this field. Both of those things cost money, which in a cost of living crisis, is a luxury.

If you don’t know anyone in the business, like I didn’t when I first came into the industry, it’s very hard to make those connections and being a woman, you are far more likely to feel the need to ‘prove’ yourself and your knowledge than a man at your experience level.

There’s such a high barrier to entry and it’s not just women who are on the back foot, it’s people from lower socioeconomic backgrounds too.

There are many talented women working in all sectors of the wine industry, but a lot of them are cis, straight, white, able-bodied and privately educated. Their talents are many and their contributions to the industry are valued, but lack of diversity in background limits our vision for the future — which I hope includes a more intersectional approach to feminism.

IWD is a moment to check in on yourself, reflect on what still needs to be done and what you can do to help.

Roisin Stimpson, co-founder of Speakeasy Entertainment

I’m a partner in Oriole Bar, a restaurant, cocktail bar and live jazz venue due to open soon in Covent Garden. I’m also a partner in Swift Bars in Soho, Shoreditch and Borough and the director of Nightjar Shoreditch and Nightjar Carnaby.

As an entrepreneur and business woman I have made my own luck. I work alongside my husband and partner Edmund Weil and he has always been encouraging in my endeavours, which has helped me to achieve my full potential. In any business it is invaluable to have the support of your peers and someone who encourages you to go further.

In the early years of the business there were times when, as the female half of the partnership, I was overlooked by companies we did business with but we made a point of calling it out when it happened. Lately I find it has been a boon to be a woman in business because people have become more interested in my perspective. With my 13 years in hospitality and 20 years of working life, I am interested in encouraging multiple perspectives and the insight that comes from a team made up of differing views.

I think the hospitality industry has caught up on sexual equality where once it had a reputation for being sexist. When I started my career in a well-known restaurant chain 20 years ago, the chef thought nothing of referring to the women in the team not by their names but by the part of their body he most admired. You would not get away with that today.

In the years since the MeToo movement, people are much more aware of appropriate boundaries and the impact of the language they use with others; as a result working life has become far more respectful.

There are still barriers to overcome – working late nights presents a safety risk for women who have to travel home when the streets can be most unsafe.

There’s also an issue when a woman decides to start a family. Shared parental leave is becoming an established part of society, which is helping to minimise this problem, but working nights is not always conducive to bringing up a baby, and this often means a change of role.

IWD allows women a moment to stop and think about the massive contribution they make to society, when historically those contributions were overlooked and the opportunities to contribute kept from them. The top school in the country is a girl’s school and has led the ranks for years; when allowed, women are top of the game.

Reading about the achievements of women is an inspiration to girls coming up the ranks, and everyone needs a vision and often a mentor to succeed, so it’s an incredibly important event.

Tara Ozols, Head Sommelier at Dovetale

As the head sommelier at Dovetale at 1 Hotel Mayfair, I am a lover of hospitality and bring wine into people’s lives, constantly working to curate one of London’s most extensive wine lists.

I won Michelin Sommelier of the Year UK & Ireland, the only woman to have done so, and through it I made incredible mates, landed a dream job and now work with the best team ever. I am also the face of La Grande Dame 2015 Europe.

Being a woman has empowered me and pushed me to where I am now. Many of the top jobs in the UK are held by women and I am proud to be among them. I feel this is a great time for women coming into the business – hospitality is one of the most diverse industries and has always been a melting pot, that’s one of the greatest things about it.

A key issue is the lack of support for women with families: we need more flexibility and work balance. It’s an old issue but sadly still a present one.

For IWD I will celebrate my strong family and friends who have empowered me, I owe them all so much.

Ximena Gayossa Gonzalez, head chef at Ixchel

As the head chef at Ixchel, a Mexican restaurant in Chelsea, I’m responsible for overseeing the culinary operations of the recently opened establishment since November 2023.

I wouldn’t say being a woman has negatively affected my career, but I have noticed that it has taken me longer to achieve certain milestones compared to male counterparts. It can be attributed to systemic barriers, gender biases, unequal access to opportunities, mentorship, and societal expectations.

The restaurant industry has seen a positive shift with more female chefs taking the lead in kitchens and owning their own restaurants, often with significant investment. This reflects an increased support for women in the industry compared to 15 years ago.

There is still significant work to be done, though. We need to continue empowering and celebrating female chefs globally, as many talented individuals remain unseen due to the disproportionate attention given to male chefs.

Offering competitive salaries and creating more opportunities for women to take on leadership roles are crucial steps to encourage greater participation. A major challenge is maintaining one’s position once it’s been achieved. The industry’s intense competition and male-dominated culture can make it difficult for women to assert authority and have their instructions followed.

A kitchen with more women often reflects a competitive environment and heightened alertness. Women in the industry have overcome numerous challenges to reach their positions, and this resilience tends to shape the atmosphere.

I would rather IWD didn’t exist, as it commemorates something that should be inherent – the right to equality. My aim is to create a world where women have the same opportunities as men, shifting the focus from the struggle to celebrating women leading in various roles, including kitchens.

Frances Cotrell-Duffield, founder of Tonic Communications

I run Tonic, a hospitality PR agency and am co-founder of Tonic Studio, a hospitality socials agency. From the female dominated world of magazine journalism to PR, I’ve only ever worked in companies with a high proportion of female employees, although my clients – restaurants mainly – are almost entirely run and owned by men. It’s meant that I have always felt nurtured and supported within the businesses I’ve worked in.

Over the years we see more and more high profile female led and owned businesses. It’s still a small proportion but it’s good to see movement. We need more women running kitchens but that requires a complex set of circumstances to change, from the perception of the kitchen environment, to the actual experience of working in these spaces. A lot has been done in some businesses but we still need more men to come out and make positive change in the sector for women to be encouraged to join the profession.

A huge consideration has got to be women’s safety – addressing how they get home safely after a long shift, late at night for example. That’s something that would absolutely stop me joining a kitchen brigade. I also think restaurants are often designed without enough consideration for female guests and those spaces can feel really off putting.

Representation is pretty poor across the board. We disproportionately talk about, read about and write about European cuisine – mainly dominated by white, male chefs. There’s far more out there we should be giving a platform to and I’m so pleased to see some writers and publications making space and shining a spotlight on chefs who don’t fit the constructed, ‘traditional’ mould.

Suzuna Nitta, senior sommelier at 67 Pall Mall

I am a senior Sommelier at 67 Pall Mall, a private members’ club for wine lovers, by wine lovers, located in the heart of London.

When I just joined 67 Pall Mall about two years ago, there were only three females in the sommelier team including myself. Today, we have almost an equal amount of female sommeliers in the 17-strong team, and my fellow senior somms are all female. I can see more and more women getting into this traditionally male-dominated industry and I am very happy to see it.

I have noticed that outside of 67 Pall Mall, male sommeliers are more noticed and celebrated than female sommeliers in general. We need to prove that gender does not affect our performance and that there are even some things we can do that our male equivalents can’t. We are all different and that is what makes us wonderful.

I have been motivated by many strong females in the industry, such as Jancis Robinson, Jane Anson, Caroline Frey… I have countless beautiful women to name. I admire them and what they have done for the wine industry and they make me want to be part of their team.

I started as a junior sommelier at 67 Pall Mall, and I was promoted twice last year. Today I am lucky enough to be a senior sommelier at the best wine club in the world.

From my experience, I can guarantee that it does not matter if you are female or Asian (like me!), the public will accept who you are if you work hard.

Natasha Sideris, founder of Tashas

I am the CEO and Founder of Tashas Group.I opened my first Tashas restaurant in Johannesburg in 2005, we now have 22 sites across South Africa, the UAE and most recently the UK, opening in Battersea in late 2023. Under the Tasha’s Group umbrella we now have a number of other concepts, including Galaxy Bar which is currently included on the World’s 50 Best Bars List and restaurants Flamingo Room, Avli and Bungalo34.

I have been very fortunate to have never been made to feel “less than” in what is seen to be a male-dominated industry. I understand that women often find it difficult but perceptions and awareness are changing all the time so it is becoming easier. I am proud that we have many female team members playing important roles across our business.

It goes without saying that there is always work to be done, creating an environment where staff feel safe and supported is vital, as is employing people whose values align with your own.

We need to showcase hospitality as an exciting industry to become part of and to build a career in through educating those who show interest and ensuring we foster that.

People always ask me if it has been challenging as a woman in this industry. I guess I don’t think of it that way. It is a challenging business no matter who you are. I really think that the biggest blocks are the ones that we create in our own minds.

There is a calmer energy in a kitchen with more women. We have to realise that men and women have different qualities. Women tend to be calmer and have more attention to detail. For our style of food, there is a special finesse that women seem to understand a little bit better. But that’s not to say that men don’t also have other important qualities.

It is great that there is continuing discussion about creating a more level playing field in the workplace.

Saiphin Moore, co-founder of Rosa’s Thai

I don’t think the fact that I am a woman has made a difference in terms of my career and running a business. I’ve always believed that I can do anything a man can do.

The industry has changed so much since we started Rosa’s in 2008 – it was a totally different time. I do think it’s much better now. People are more willing to listen and hear from women, which I find very encouraging.

But there’s definitely more to be done. Last week I was at a dinner of industry founders and out of 60 founders in the room I was one of four or five women. I was proud to be one of them but I’d like to see a lot of women in the room.

Women are creative and hardworking and shouldn’t be afraid to be respected by men. When I was growing up in Thailand it was a common view that women belonged in the kitchen – this is not the case anymore.

Men often have a natural confidence and this can be intimidating. But we know that women and men are equal and I’d like to encourage women to believe in this to succeed.

I love being in the kitchen with women because we all understand each other. Women are great communicators and that is so important when working in a team. At Lao Cafe, we have an almost all female team in the kitchen and it’s such a warm, fun environment, full of laughter.

We should be proud to celebrate women everyday.

Maura Baxter, executive chef at 65a

I’m executive chef at 65a Brasserie in London’s Spitalfields. Looking back I came up through kitchens at a time when they were more male dominated, which definitely presented difficulties from time to time, adding an element of extra pressure to prove my cooking skills.

I’ve worked with Patrick Frawley, the owner of 65a, across a number of his restaurants in both Ireland and the UK for over 20 years. It’s an environment where I’ve been supported, which is why we’ve worked together for so many years.

Unfortunately most of the industry hasn’t changed hugely. There are more women in kitchens now, which I love to see, but it’s still very male dominated. There are both structural and systematic issues that just aren’t being addressed. As women in hospitality it is vital we each do our part to ensure we are challenging these issues.

I don’t feel a career in cooking is promoted the way it should be with young people, in particular young women. It goes without saying that hours in a kitchen can be unsociable and this can be particularly challenging for women, especially those with children. But it is up to employers to address this so they can retain great chefs.

Women are still underrepresented across the board and we all need to do our part to combat these issues and support the women in our communities.

Therese Andersson, Head Chef, Ekstedt at The Yard

I am the Head Chef at Ekstedt at The Yard, a Scandinavian restaurant in the Great Scotland Yard Hotel. I have been there since we opened in 2021, initially working as a sous chef. For the last 14 months, I have been head chef and the leader of the kitchen, supported by my amazing team.

I have always had big goals for myself and believe that as women we can perform at the same level as men. I remember when I started in this industry, people never talked about sexual inequality – today it’s an open conversation and we support each other more.

It is still not perfect and we still need to talk about that and support each other: in unity, we can feel stronger together and motivate each other. We need to support young people, who are starting to be interested in this industry and show them how fun it can be.

I am proud to be a woman today and show that we can be on the same level in all kinds of professions as men. I have had that attitude since my childhood, passed on from my mum, who was a strong woman. She motivated me and told me that I can be anything I want. I am proud to be where I am in my career, being able to show that women can do this too. I am where I am today because I have an amazing team.

Sandia Chang, co-founder and sommelier at Kitchen Table

I’m the co-founder and sommelier at Kitchen Table. I believe that gender equality has grown over time in hospitality, not because of purposely including females or males, but because hospitality has become more popular as an industry.

We need to really work to make hospitality attractive as a whole to work in. Hospitality has not always been the most respected career. We should also put more effort into better maternity care and childcare support as hospitality hours are very different from 9-5 jobs, where a nursery can resolve childcare issues.

Women need to stop second guessing ourselves and thinking we are not as worthy. We need to put ourselves out there!

Men behave better when there are women around. I say that in all seriousness. Women have less ‘testosterone fuelled’ competition in the kitchen, they just get on with things. And men stop behaving like children when there are women present.

I now have a daughter and IWD makes me very hopeful that her future will be well supported by all the amazing women out there.

Caroline Taylor, general manager at Novikov

As general manager of Novikov Restaurant & Bar, I am at the helm of a diverse team of characters – 390 in total – of which each and every one plays their part to deliver one of the most successful restaurants in London.

I am so thankful that at 21 I found this mad, fun, energetic and fulfilling career. I didn’t know at that stage just how passionate I would soon become. I am so thrilled to be doing what I love. I am constantly challenged and constantly rewarded.

I worked directly for women in my first two roles in restaurants, both of whom were strong, determined and thoughtful, so I didn’t know anything else. I was ‘programmed’ to be able to stand on my own two feet, so I didn’t fear standing up and being counted.

I have been around long enough to have seen how the hospitality business was way back, when we worked a six day week with five split shifts. The restaurant world has moved forward with regards to gruelling hours, although I believe more opportunities can be made available for women at any age to find an avenue for motivation that brings enjoyment as well as work in this wonderful business. Overall it’s about individuals and it’s always good to have a healthy mix and for all to be able to rely on their strengths – to keep a little harmony in the workplace.

I think IWD is a really optimistic celebration and awareness continues to grow globally. Also, mimosa’s light up the smiles of women on 8 March every year at Novikov.