By Steve Dinneen
London is beautiful at Christmas and one of the most festive corners of our city is Covent Garden. Opening to the general public for the first time, Piazza is the fifth floor restaurant in the iconic Royal Opera House, boasting a huge terrace with panoramic views over Covent Garden’s holiday wonderland.
The dining room is modern and stylish, flooded with light from the giant windows and warmed by the burnished gold ceiling. Starting with upscale snacks, the pretty-much-perfect duck arancini with smoky hoisin sauce and cod roe “quavers” were not to be missed.
I ordered a bottle of Domaine Agapé Riesling and this Alsace Grand Cru more than delivered. The chunky smoked salmon starter came with innovatively deconstructed sides of apples, capers and yet more caviar, and the lamb, their most popular dish, showed its seven hours of slow cooking in every rich, succulent bite. Served with creamy polenta and salty, crispy kale this was a sophisticated take on winter comfort food that filled me with joy.
The choux buns for dessert, stuffed with white chocolate cream and figs, are heavenly baubles of indulgence. Even at this bustling time in central London the service and pace was spot on and there was an air of easy calm, though perhaps that changes when the opera crowd emerge for the performances. Though Piazza is not actually a piazza, I came away giddy – not just from the vertigo of the views but from the highly enjoyable lunch.
Wines of the week
BOSMAN PINOT NOIR 2021, £14.99, WAITROSE
From the premium region of Hemel en Aarde in South Africa this supple, sumptuous red has a silky texture, delicate notes of smoke and roses and an elegant ripeness which far outweighs its bargainous price tag.
BRUNO PAILLARD BLANC DE BLANCS 2013, £95, HEDONISM WINES
A challenging year has resulted in this beautifully fresh wine with its lively effervescence and striking purity. Made from Grand Cru Chardonnay grapes, this sophisticated champagne is bright with lemon zest and oyster shell. The perfect wake up to Christmas morning.
PENFOLDS FATHER TAWNY 10 YEAR OLD PORT, £24.99, MAJESTIC
Port is a perfect sweet treat at Christmas and this one will keep the merriment going with its bold flavours of raisins drenched in sweet caramel with hints of zesty orange peel. Pass on the mulled wine and have a glass of this to keep out the chill.
LAURENT MIQUEL VÉRITÉ VIOGNIER 2020, £17.99, WAITROSE
This delicious Viognier is a class act from Southern France. Fragrant and floral with tempting whispers of exotic and stone fruits. Full-bodied, refined with a comfortingly toasting finish. Perfect with turkey.
SIMPSONS’ FLINT FIELDS BLANC DE NOIRS 2018, £45, THE FINEST BUBBLE
Awarded Best English Sparkling Wine trophy at the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships this year, this Pinot Noir sparkling wine is rich and delicious. It reminds me of a raspberry pastry. A treat of a wintertime wine.
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