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The first woman to be named France's best sommelier, Pascaline Lepeltier will represent France's chances February 7 to 12 in what is considered to be the most challenging -- and most prestigious -- competition for sommelies : the World's Best Sommelier competition. A philosopher by training, Lepeltier, who exercises her art of wine pairing at New York restaurant Chambers is a symbolic figure of a wine world that is seeing women playing an increasingly important role. The phenomenon is nothing new but it's one that is attracting more mainstream attention. We got the lowdowwn from Jérôme Baudouin, editor of La Revue du Vin de France, whose first issue of the year presents a focus on the rise of women in the world of wine.
The first woman to be named France's best sommelier, Pascaline Lepeltier will represent France's chances February 7 to 12 in what is considered to be the most challenging -- and most prestigious -- competition for sommelies : the World's Best Sommelier competition. A philosopher by training, Lepeltier, who exercises her art of wine pairing at New York restaurant Chambers is a symbolic figure of a wine world that is seeing women playing an increasingly important role. The phenomenon is nothing new but it's one that is attracting more mainstream attention. We got the lowdowwn from Jérôme Baudouin, editor of La Revue du Vin de France, whose first issue of the year presents a focus on the rise of women in the world of wine.
Why did you choose to dedicate the magazine's first issue of 2023 to the rise of women in wine?
Jérôme Baudouin: I have had this subject in mind for a while because I knew that these days it's a majority of women graduating from oenology schools in Bordeaux or agronomy schools in Montpellier. And when you take into account the demographics, this situation indicates that women will soon be in the majority among wine industry managers. Meanwhile we are seeing more men who are content with an advanced vocational diploma in order to take over the family estate.
When did this trend of women studying wine to become winemakers start?
In the 1970s, there were a few women who were pioneers like Dany Rolland, the wife of Michel Rolland [a Bordeaux oenologist respected throughout the world - Ed] who directed the laboratory and was top of her class. In Burgundy, there's Nadine Gublin. But these are the exceptions. The phenomenon of women practicing winemaking in significant numbers is very recent.
It's even more meaningful as your first issue of the year reveals all the award winners for La Revue du Vin de France prizes. And coincidentally or not, three women are honored this year (Carole Bouquet as personality of the year, Ludivine Griveau with the special prize and Laura David as discovery of the year). I can't remember so many female wine figures being honored by your publication. Is this a sign that we're entering a new era?
It's true that in the past we've received some raps on the knuckles. And we acknowledge that few women have received an award. In fact, when we look at the individuals who head up France's top wine houses, there are very few women winemakers. But, in the future, this will change. And these women leaders are arriving at breakneck speed. In Saint-Emilion, in half of the estates with classified crus, women hold positions as estate directors, technical directors or cellar managers. Bordeaux is very representative of this growing role played by women the wine industry, because of the university environment with the training courses in the wine professions. Traditionally, women have long been involved in the running of Bordeaux wineries. As the farms were very large, they took part in the work in the vineyard and the cellar.
Can this greater role played by women in viticulture promote an increase in organic wines, as women are believed to be more receptive to the principles of organic agriculture?
I'm not sure. It's a cliché to think that women are more receptive to organic viticulture. Similarly describing a wine as a so-called feminine blend means nothing!
How does this situation in France, where women are playing a greater role compare to other countries?
It's not at all unique to France. In vineyards in Australia, the United States and Italy, one can see women are increasingly taking up roles as heads of estates, if not in management positions. In Bordeaux, where the largest university of oenology in the world is located, 40% of the students come from abroad, including from China, Argentina, California, etc. In 10 to 15 years, the majority of wine estates look set to be headed by women. The more physical positions will remain the domain of men. In the agricultural world, I think that the wine industry may be the most advanced in terms women's presence in various professions.
The fact that Pascaline Lepeltier is a candidate in the World's Best Sommelier competition is perhaps the most symbolic example of the rise of women in the wine business. Pascaline is a highly honored and respected figure in France and the United States, and the first female MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France/Best Craftsperson of France) sommelier. Do you think that the French have a chance of winning the title?
I think we have a very good chance. The competition takes place in Paris. I know [Lepeltier] well because she works with us. Her level of reflection on the subject of viticulture is beyond comparison with the other candidates. She has a holistic vision: she takes into account the life of the soil, consumer trends, the social environment, etc, all on the same footing. Her studies in philosophy are obviously a plus because this has helped structure her thinking. On the other hand, she should not forget to follow her instinct, which can often happen when one delves deep into thinking something through. In order to maintain a balance, she practices meditation and has a sports coach on Broadway. I predict she will be a finalist.
Is there even more pressure here than during the MOF Sommelier competition?
In fact, she approached thatchallenge differently, telling herself she had nothing to lose. She has no background in hospitality. That was her game approach. For her, the competition was not an end in itself. For the World's Best Sommelier competition, things are different...
This interview has been translated from French.
