This review was first published in the Winter 2023 edition of Out&About magazine.
“We know we are not a once a week restaurant so it has to be special. To try and take people out of their day-to-day—that is what we are trying to do.”
Such is the ambition that chef Henry Kremer-Ireson—previously of Newbury restaurant Henry & Joe’s—has set out for his new restaurant.
Damson inhabits the former Winterbourne Arms pub and the historic rural drinking hole has been transformed into a welcoming space that showcases Henry’s vision of contemporary dining.
The restaurant’s chic green interior is paired with exposed brick walls, animal wall art and modern cutlery and crockery, inducing a refined yet relaxed setting.
Food, as you’d expect, is the key focus here and all the restaurant staff are knowledgeable about the ingredients and techniques that are used to create Damson’s exciting dishes.
The tasting menu includes vegetarian and plant based versions, all priced at £120. But I went with a friend to sample the lunchtime set menu (£50 per head, £20 supplement for two for the cheese course), which, like the others, evolves from week to week and reflects the changes of the seasons.
To start we were treated to a small loaf of homemade sourdough bread with salted butter – a perfect example of how to do the simple things right.
The hot sour bread mixed with the saltiness of the butter perfectly and it got me excited for what was to come.
We were first served some snacks, all ingeniously made from surplus ingredients used in the main course.
One was a crispy cod skin along with a brandade and scallop roe, which provided a lovely little mix of tanginess and crunchiness, and the other was a celeriac and fig jam tart.
The tart was really exceptional and one of my favourite bits of the whole menu.
The mellow creaminess of the celeriac mixed with the sharp sweetness of the fig jam in a strangely complementary way—it almost tasted like a dessert.
Then our first proper course was served.
The two starters were salt baked celeriac with Sauternes raisins, date and truffle, and a soused mackerel and parfait tartlet with ash baked beetroot, buttermilk and burnt apple.
Just like the celeriac snack, this dish was dessert-like with Christmassy sweet flavours provided by the raisins and date. The smooth celeriac base balanced out the strength of the other components.
The mackerel was an impressive dish in two parts. The first was the tart which was lovely and smoky without being too fishy and the second showcased pieces of mackerel in a vinegary beetroot sauce.
The melt-in-your-mouth fish was light and soft, with the beetroot sauce a powerful enhancement to the interesting dish.
The main course took a more traditional turn that still had some pleasant, off-kilter surprises.
We enjoyed a cod loin with Jerusalem artichoke, warm tartar sauce, sea herbs and pomme soufflé, and a bavette with Guinness braised cheek, celeriac and yeast, broccoli and green sauce.
The cod, just like the mackerel before it, was delightfully soft and not overpoweringly salty. The warm tartar was an interesting take on the fish and chips classic that I’d love to see used in more fish dishes.
The bavette steak was paired with a rich and jammy red wine sauce—perfect for those who like their bold flavours—and the tender Guinness-infused cheek just added to the power of the dish.
After the mains we enjoyed some British cheeses along with crackers, a Waldorf salad and tangy sweet damson chutney.
Then to desserts. One was a pumpkin parfait with a spiced biscuit, pickled pumpkin and bitter orange, which was a cosy and autumnal treat.
The other featured caramelised apple, fermented elderberries, fig leaf and cinnamon and was an explosion of fruity flavours with a boozy kick from the fermented berries.
Damson offers small portions that pack a massive punch. Throughout my meal, I experienced amazing flavours I had never tasted before.
The presentation was exemplary and the care and technique that went into making all of the dishes was clear to see.
For a special dining experience definitely out of the day-to-day, Damson should be on your list.
Damson Restaurant, Winterbourne, 01635 248368, https://damson-restaurant.co.uk/
